LWF Trend Forecast: What’s Next for Fashion and Beauty | Ginger Spark No. 9
First signals worth watching before they catch fire: London’s expressive glam goes architectural.
London may be smaller in scale, but it has always been a launchpad. This is where emerging designers debut bold ideas before the rest of the market catches up. The mood is more experimental, more art-school influenced, and often more directional in both fashion and beauty. You see risk here and personality. Silhouettes feel less filtered. Beauty feels less commercial and more expressive. If other cities refine and monetize trends, London is often where they begin. Happy Reading!
Harris Reed: Opera in Technicolor
Harris Reed leaned fully into fantasy this season, opening with colorful veils in magenta, cerulean, and seafoam that set an instantly cinematic tone. Tiger stripes in molten ochre and black, zebra patterns in electric blue and oxblood, and distorted feline motifs moved across sculpted gowns and sharp tailoring. They felt expressive and surreal rather than literal. Dramatic bouquets of creamy calla lilies and deep wine orchids softened the structure and reinforced Reed’s evolving conversation around modern, expressive brides. Beauty elevated the spectacle. Makeup by Sofia Tilbury for Charlotte Tilbury added strategic polish. The luminous, porcelain skin anchored the theatrical silhouettes, while the graphic undereye liner directed the gaze. It was legacy glam meeting next-generation runway energy. Hair by Ali Pirzadeh balanced the drama with high, slightly undone shapes and romantic volume. The redhead moments were especially striking. Nails by MVK.ua completed the precision.
Ginger Spark:
This was about setting the visual agenda, not immediate sell-through. Expect saturated animal prints, romantic bridal cues, and colorful veiling to influence more commercial collections next season. On the beauty side, the lesson is control. Luminous skin paired with one graphic focal point shows that even maximalism works best when it is anchored.
Patrick McDowell: Sculpted Romance
Inspired by George Platt Lynes’ sculptural photography, beauty focused on light, shadow, and form rather than overt drama. Makeup by M·A·C Cosmetics UK & Ireland, led by @mac_carlyutting, centered on luminous skin with subtle contour that intentionally caught the light. Coral and soft pink lips added warmth, especially striking on the redheads. Eyes were defined but not heavy, allowing the bone structure and natural gaze to lead. Hair by Revlon UK, styled by@danilogiangreco, moved between sleek pull-backs that emphasized facial architecture and voluminous, Pre-Raphaelite waves that introduced softness and movement. The balance between control and romance mirrored the collection’s sculptural inspiration.
Ginger Spark:
Beauty is shifting toward sculpted restraint. Think luminous skin, architectural simplicity, and romantic texture used with intention rather than excess.
Erdem: Masterful Feminine/Masculine Dichotomy
Erdem’s show, titled “The Imaginary Conversation,” marked a 20-year milestone for designer Erdem Moralıoğlu. Blending romanticism with historical rigor, the collection featured intricate jacquards and tapestries, embroidery, lace, and layered textures. These were often contrasted with sleek, structured coats (powered by a continuing partnership with Barbour), and tailored, nearly mannish garments.
The show felt like a “séance” or an “imaginary conversation,” focusing on textured, theatrical pieces. It marked 20 years of Erdem’s signature blend of melancholy and femininity. The show was held at the iconic Tate Britain, adding a historic, artistic backdrop to the 20th-anniversary milestone. The collection showcased intricate, tactile designs, continuing Erdem’s focus on historical, character-driven fashion. To further balance the collection, footwear was the final note, from man-tailored oxfords to Muppet-like fluffy “mop” designs.
Ginger Spark: The collection was highly anticipated as a highlight of LFW, showcasing the evolution of the “unforgettable Erdem woman”. Designer Erdem Moralıoğlu steered away from a traditional “retrospective” for his 20th anniversary show. Instead, he took inspiration from imaginary conversations between muses that informed past collections, from Maria Callas to the Duchess of Devonshire to Marianne North, splicing them up for an exuberant outing. With the BAFTAs, the show was modeled and attended by high-profile modern muses - including Mary Chuikova, Qisi Feng, Song Ah, Karen Elson, Keira Knightley, Glenn Close, Lily James, and Helen Mirren, as noted byThe Guardian andthis Facebook post.
Cheers to London! Ciao until Milan. 🇮🇹
